In contrast to the more fickle fashion industry, which reinvents the language of haute couture every spring and fall, trends in the watch industry tend to exhibit more staying power. For the past few years, watch manufacturers have been all abuzz about blue dials, producing a plethora of new blue variations across their men’s collections. Recently, however, the dial hue du jour has moved just a short hop down the color spectrum. Green dials, which began to debut in greater numbers last year, graduated into a full-fledged trend this year, with green dials making prominent appearances at manufacturer displays at the year’s top high-end watch shows in a range of tones—from vibrant emeralds to muted military greens.
Looking for more motivation to jump onboard the green dial trend? A number of fashion-conscious celebrities have already embraced the verdant vogue, with photos of them wearing the timepieces out and about finding their way onto social media. For instance, star of the summer blockbuster Hobbs and Shaw Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson was spotted outfitted with IWC’s green-dialed Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire.
Wearing his Irish pride on his wrist, MMA fighter Connor McGregor can often be seen with this Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date (read more about this model below) or his similarly shaded Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona.
Actor Mark Wahlberg is a big watch collector, owning not only a green-dialed Rolex but this military-green Patek Phillippe, as well (see below).
Technically, this Richard Mille RM 67-02 worn by Yankees closing pitcher Aroldis Chapman has a skeletonized dial that’s mostly coated in black using physical vapor deposition (PVD), but its case and a number of its main bridges are awash in vibrant green, showing how striking and bold the normally understated color can be.
Convinced to hop on the green dial bandwagon now? Well, you’re in luck. Below we present five of our favorite watches epitomizing the best of the trend.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G
Patek Philippe introduced this new khaki-green version of its sporty Aquanaut this year at Baselworld—and it’s about as bold an offering as you will see from the venerable Swiss brand. The dial is embossed with a crosshatched pattern that echoes the one found on the watch’s matching green rubber strap, giving it a rugged, military-like appearance—a look that pairs especially well with the Aquanaut’s big luminescent Arabic numerals and hands. The 42-inch Aquanaut in Khaki Green is priced at $39,690.
MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement Titanium Green
Always on the cutting edge, MB&F has reintroduced one of its limited-edition models with—you guessed it—a green dial. The Legacy Machine Split Escapement was originally introduced two years ago in white gold and four dial-color variations. This year’s model does away with the white-gold case in favor of titanium, which could be a blessing for those who like a lighter watch. Its gorgeous sun-ray finish is applied by chemical vapor deposition (CVD), while the finishes on the previous versions were applied by brush. One thing that hasn’t changed is the movement driving the watch, which divides the watch’s escapement in two by positioning the balance on the front of the movement and the impulse jewel, anchor, and escape wheel to the reverse—thus giving the illusion that the balance is being driven by some unseen force. Limited to 33 examples in total, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement Titanium Green is priced at $68,000.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
The classic Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, which originally debuted in 1956, was updated at this year’s Baselworld with a new version in an enchanting green ombré dial. However, if anything could peel your eyes away from the entrancing hue, it would be the square and baguette diamonds cradled in 18-karat-gold settings that act as hour markers. The original Day-Date was the first watch to spell out the name of the current day of the week, and this signature feature appears in all of its glory in large, legible letters at 12 o’clock. The latest addition to the Perpetual Day-Date 26 line will set you back $34,550.
Piaget Polo S
Piaget expanded its Polo S line at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie with this chameleon of a watch. Though decidedly green, its guilloché dial displays a rainbow of colors when light hits it at different angles. The automatic steel watch, which features a date window at three o’clock, is equipped with a green alligator leather strap to complement its shimmering dial. The Polo S in green is limited to 500 examples and is the most accessible watch on our list, priced at $8,100 apiece.
H. Moser Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green
Boutique Swiss brand H. Moser has built a reputation for creating watches with radically unconventional timekeeping displays that further blur the line between art piece and timepiece. For instance, its new Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black features a tourbillon and a minute repeater, but there’s no way to tell the time by sight. Also new this year is the H. Moser Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green, which features a green dial with a gradated sunburst finish. And you’ll have plenty of dial to admire thanks to H. Moser’s signature minimalism. It lacks any sort of indices, featuring only an hour hand, a minute hand, and an aperture revealing the movement’s tourbillon. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green is priced at $69,900 and will be limited to just 50 pieces worldwide.